GREEK WINES - ATHENEE IMPORTERS

Thymiopoulos Vineyards, Porto Carras, Ktima Pavlidis, Vassiliou/Nemeion, Domaine Harlaftis, Union of Winemaking Co-op/Samos

On March 4 we were graced here in the US (specifically at Winebow - Somerville, MA), with the presence of 11 Greek Wineries/Winemakers and/or their representatives.  I was thrilled to be able to attend!  It's not often that one is able to taste so many Greek wines in one place (approx. 65!) A unique experience indeed, and one which I will endeavor to share with you here.  They are presently on their Third Annual Road Show in the states, represented by ATHENEE Importers, Hempstead, NY (and SoPo Wine Co. in Maine) and will visit Chicago, New Orleans and New York City as well.  

Domaine Spiropoulos, GAI'I Wines, Mercouri Estate, Gentilini Winery, Estate Argyros

They hail from throughout Greece.  From the north in Macedonia in the regions of Naoussa, Cotes de Meliton and Drama to the central part of the country in Attica, the southernmost tip of the mainland in Peloponnese in the appellations of Nemea, Mantinia & Ilia, and to the islands of Cephalonia, Santorini & Samos.  That said, the climates also vary, including cool, mountainous terrain, as well as those directly influenced by the Ionian, Aegean and Mediterranean Seas.  Olive orchards are also present in many cases.

Indigenous grape varietals such as Agiorgitiko (Ai-your-yee-tee-ko), Assyrtiko (Ah-seer-tee-ko), Limnio, Malagouzia, Mavrodaphne, Mavrotragano and Xinomavro to name a few, are used to make these beautiful, high-quality wines.  I found elegance and sophistication in these wines, as well as a distinctive down-to-earth quality and unpretentiousness that made them truly accessible and world class.  This is also a reflection/expression of the winemakers who make them, genuine, real and accomplished. These are family-owned vineyards run with a hands-on approach, also working intimately with nature.  

Now for some highlights!  

We were greeted by an array of fresh oysters, clams and shrimp from the folks at Island Creek Oyster in Boston.  This went perfectly with our first taste of the day, High Peaks Muscat 2010, from the Union of Winemaking Cooperatives on the island of Samos. Crisp, clean, dry, even slightly weighty, it stood up to those Duxbury clams on the half shell! Formed in 1934, wine production is standardized in two wineries on the island to ensure quality standards.  All wines are made from the white Muscat grape (Muscat blanc a petits grains).  Others are dessert wines, known for their balance and lush, natural sweetness.

Uranos 2009, Thymiopoulos Vineyards

Following up with my article from last month, (you may remember - "Young Vines" Xinomavro 2010 - see previous article below), I got my wish to try the Uranos from Thymiopoulos Vineyards! Grapes are 100% Xinomavro, as with the "Young Vines". This wine did not disappoint! With 18 months in oak, it was deep and dark, smooth and soft on the mouth. Expressive depth of fruit. Spice. The land is schist, calcerous, rocky. Located in Naoussa, Macedonia in the north, the vineyard is operated by Apostolos Thymiopoulos, who returned to his family's vineyards after studying oenology. Xinomavro (Zi-no-mav-ro) literally means "acid black". Ghi kai Uranos means "earth & sky" and was first released in 2004, with celebrated vintages ever since.

Available in Maine at RSVP and Street & Co. (Portland) and Lakonia (Saco).

Limnio 2010, Domaine Porto Carras

Also from Macedonia, but further south in the region of Cotes de Meliton, is Domaine Porto Carras Limnio 2010.  Grape is 100% Limnio, an ancient Greek varietal.  I loved the earthy color and aromas. Spicy. Sexy.  Soft/sensual mouth feel.  Dry finish. Gorgeous. Terraced vineyards are bordered by both mountains (Mount Meliton) and sea (Gulf of Torone) and cover 1,170 acres.  The only vineyard in Cotes de Meliton and certified organic.  I also enjoyed the Malagouzia 2011.  100% Malagouzia, another ancient Greek (white) varietal. Rich, round fruit resonant with light tropical notes of apricot.  Elegance. Smooth. Ultimately dry finish. 

Available in Maine at RSVP (Portland) and Trattoria Athena (Brunswick).

Nemea 2008, Domaine Vassiliou

Domaine Vassiliou/Nemeion Estate, NEMEA 2008. 100% Agiorgitiko.  Earthy, funky "barnyard" on the nose. Deep notes of cherry on palate.  Silky mouth feel.  Beautiful spicy, dry finish. Delicious! Members of the third generation Vassiliou family run this joint winery operation (Domaine Vassiliou & Nemeion Estate), with vineyards in Attica, Central Greece and Nemea, Peloponnese.  Grapes are hand-harvested and certified, organic viticulture is practiced.  

Retsina of Attica, Domaine Vassiliou

I also loved the Retsina of Attica NV (above).  100% Savatiano (the grape of Retsina!) Light golden yellow in color, this has the characteristic pine on nose and palate, but with a richer quality than we've been accustomed to here in the US.  Beautifully integrated.  This was great!  

Emphasis Assyrtiko & Chardonnay 2011 

Ktima Pavlidis, EMPHASIS Assyrtiko 2011. 100% Assyrtiko.  Light yellow/green color.  This reminded me of Loire Valley (France) on the nose!  Fresh minerality and acidity with notes of citrus.  Lean. Nice body & balance. Unique. EMPHASIS Chardonnay 2011.  Clean and refreshing on the nose and palate.   Lightly rich fruit.  Long dry finish.  This is barrel fermented for 6 months.  Glass pours anyone?!!

THEMA RED 2009.  60% Syrah, 40% Agiorgitiko. Deep purple red color.  Black fruits. Powerful blend. Tannic.  Smoke. Spice. 

Ktima Pavlidis Winery is located in the northernmost part of Macedonia in the region of Drama, in a narrow valley surrounded by three large mountains. Hand-harvested grapes are grown in red stony soil and limestone.  Indigenous varietals combine with modern winemaking in this "Kitma" (Greek word for Estate). 

Domaine Harlaftis Chardonnay 2011

Domaine Harlaftis, Chardonnay 2011.   This lovely Chardonnay was very "Burgundian", with well balanced, light oak.  Excellent value.  In fact, it was aged 4-5 months in French oak. 

The Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 had that dusty Olde World quality that I love in a wine, with somewhat brighter/deep fruit. Full-bodied.  Aged for 12 months in new oak.  

Nikos Athanassiadis was one of the best known dry raisin merchants in Greece at the turn of the century.  However, his true passion was for growing grapes, which in 1932 led him to establish vineyards in Stamata, located on the slopes of Mount Pendeli near Athens.  Later forced out due to development of suburbs around the capital, he acquired land in Attica (Central Greece) and Nemea (Peloponnese).  The original winery in Stamata is still active, allowing them to stay in touch with the marketplace.  They grow their grapes organically as well, although not certified due to high cost of certification.  They are a family-run business well on their way to third generation winemakers.

Domaine Spiropoulos, Porfyros 2007

Domaine Spiropoulos, Porfyros 2007. A Bordeaux Blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  Light floral on the nose and smooth on the tongue, this was different than a traditional-style Bordeaux - and I loved it.  Very pretty and feminine yet powerful. Aged in oak for 14 months.  Unfiltered. October harvest. 

Also, the Mantinia 2011.  100% Moschofilero. Stony light color. Very clean/lean. Oysters!

Established in Mantinia, Peloponnese in 1870, Domaine Spiropoulos was the first winery in Greece to receive organic certification by the USDA.  They expanded to Nemea in 2007, opening a new winery with over 150 acres combined and grow indigenous, international as well as near extinct varietals. 

Available in Maine at RSVP, Browne Trading Co., Emilitsa, Back Bay Grill & Eventide (Portland), Lakonia (Saco), Perkins & Perkins (Ogunquit) and Bootlegger's (Topsham)

Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2010

GAI'A Wines, Assyrtiko Wild Ferment 2012. 100% Assyrtiko. Smoky on the nose. Velvety/smooth mouth feel. Nice complexity. Minerality. Aged 50/50 - stainless/oak. From Santorini.

14-18h Rose' 2011. 100% Agiorgitiko. Pretty pink color. Lovely fresh, clean fruit. Lively wild berries.  I know it's 2011, but still delicious and refreshing!  Available in Maine at: RSVP & Emilitsa (Portland), Lakonia (Saco), 40 Paper (Camden) and Golden Harvest Produce Market (Kittery).

GAI'A Estate 2008. 100% Agiorgitiko. Beautiful. Well integrated. Sophisticated. Restraint/Subtlety. Private vineyard. Good for aging! 

Founded in 1994 by Yiannis Paraskevopoulos (Agriculturist w/PhD in Enology from U. of Bordeaux) and Leon Karatsalos (Agriculturalist), GAI'A Wineries are located in the region of Nemea in Peloponnese and on the Island of Santorini.  This joint venture has received consistent praise in International wine publications.  Their intention is to present beautifully expressed indigenous Greek grape varietals to wine enthusiasts worldwide.

Mercouri Estate Daphne Nera 2009

Mercouri Estate, Daphne Nera 2009. 100% Mavrodaphne. The grape known for making sweet wines, the expression here was one of depth and elegance. Sleek/refined mouth feel along with beautifully integrated fruit.  On the label is pictured the Grandmother (or was it Great Grandmother?)

Foloi 2012 & Kallisto 2012

Foloi 2012. 90% Roditis, 10% Viognier. Minerality. Wow. Super clean. Lively. Structure. Lyrical.  Available in Maine at:  RSVP, Emilitsa, Browne Trading Co. & Miyake (Portland), Lakonia (Saco), Perkins & Perkins (Ogunquit)

Kallisto 2012. 50% Assyrtiko, 50% Robola. Clean. Gorgeous & balanced.  Notes of kiwi fruit.

The Mercouri Estate is located in western Peloponnese in the region of Ilia (near ancient Olympia). The estate goes back 4 generations,  established in 1864 by the entrepreneur Theodore Mercouri, who in his travels to Alexandria, Egypt and northern Italy brought back cuttings of the Refosco varietal.  Their 2008 Estate Red is a blend of 80% Refosco, 15% Mavrodaphne.  4th generation winemakers/brothers Vassilis and Christos Kanelakopoulos preside.  On the day of the tasting I spoke with the son, Charalambos.  Truly a family-run estate!

Gentilini Red 2011

Gentilini Winery, Red 2011. 60% Agiorgitiko, 40% blend of Syrah & Mavrodaphne. Sexy on the nose. Velvety fruit. Gorgeous yet austere.  Terroir is limestone, sandy/clay.  The herb thyme grows nearby. 

Robola Cellar Select 2011. 100% Robola. Richness from aging on the leas. Touch honeycomb. Minerals. Depth/complexity. Dry finish. Aged 20% in barrels, 80% stainless. Blended afterwards. 

The name Gentilini came from Spiro-Nicholas Kosmetatos paternal Grandmother, Marianna. The winery and vineyards have passed from generations from Spiro-Nicholas Kosmetatos to in present day, his daughter Marianna and her husband Petros Markantonatos.  Located on the island of Cephalonia, the largest and most complex island of western Greece. Mountains and rocky limestone soil provide optimal conditions for this Mediterranean vineyard.  This winery practices organic viticulture.

Aidani 2011

Estate Argyros, Aidani 2011. 100% Aidani (the grape indigenous to Santorini). Unique w/tropical fruit notes. Smoky. Clean. Calcerous and Herbaceous.  

Assyrtiko 2011.  Much minerality. Smoky. Terroir of Lava!  120-130 year old vines.  

Atlantis Red 2009. 90% Mandarelaria, 10% Mavrotragano. Herbaceous w/hints of eucalyptus & anise. Grown on vacant island ... 

Mavrotragano 2009. Meditational fruit. Depth. Dry finish. Rare, indigenous varietal of Santorini.  

Established in 1903 by Georgios Argyros on the island of Santorini, this estate is now run by third generation winemaker, Yiannis Argyros, who has rebuilt the winery and expanded its holdings. "He is considered one of the best white winemakers in Greece and his estate won the Wine & Spirits "100 Best Wineries" in 2005 and 2006". 

To get a feel for the gorgeous terroir and seaside climate of Greece (specifically Santorini), watch this short pictorial video from their website:

http://www.estate-argyros.com/

Beautiful Olive oil from Gentilini Winery on the Island of Cephalonia and Aged Balsamic from GAI'A Wines on Santorini were also available,  reflecting the distinctive terroir from which they come - a gastronomic treasure.  

Let me end by saying that with this being an overview of the whole, there has been brevity of description here.  These wines all deserve further consideration, in much more depth, and I hope to do that in the future!  We already carry a number of them here in Maine (which I have noted above), ranging from $15.99 - 25.99/btl.

I hope you will take the time to seek out some of these wines, enjoy them at leisure with a meal, and celebrate what the beautiful country of Greece has to offer!  

THYMIOPOULOS "YOUNG VINES" XINOMAVRO

Thymiopoulos Vineyards 

"Young Vines" Xinomavro 2010

Naoussa, Macedonia Greece

100% Xinomavro.

Unique and engaging, this wine is earthy cinnamon red in color, like the underbrush. Briar. Slight essence of sherry gives way to juicy, refreshing wild berries on the nose. This continues on the palate with undertone of pure bing cherry. Notes of blackberry, red and black currant are tart and wild sweet. Spicy herbaceousness is present, with ubersoft, smooth mouthfeel and tannins that offer an ultimately dry finish. I love this style wine and found it absolutely delightful, with much finesse, even restraint.  After some breathing time, depth and sensuality. One could also imagine enjoying it with a slight chill on, in warmer sunnier climes that is ... such as, of course GREECE!

$14.99 at Rosemont Market, Portland.  

Thymiopoulos Vineyards are located in northern Greece - Macedonia, specifically at Trilofos and Fytia, the southern tip of the appellation of Naoussa. The Thymiopoulos family has owned their 200 acre vineyard for several generations and formerly grew vines to sell to co-ops.  Apostolos studied oenology at the University of Athens and since then has been producing wine for his own label.  For the "Young Vines" bottling he used 5-7 year old newly replanted vines to maintain his high quality standards.  Where terroir is concerned, Naoussa has soil rich in clay and also calcium and limestone.   Vines are farmed biodynamically in this also rich agricultural area.  Fermentation is with wild yeast and the juice sees no oak.  Indeed, his distinct and innovative Xinomavro wines have created international waves.  

Speaking of the grape itself, the Xinomavro varietal is perhaps idiosyncratic to say the least. Grown in various parts of Greece, particularly the north, it is highly regarded as Greece's finest red and known for its high tannin, acidity and deep red color.  The grape's name means bitter (Xino) black (mavro) - as Negroamara is for Italy.  It's the primary grape in the areas of Naoussa and Goumenissa. And in the inspired hands of Apostolos Thymiopoulos, it becomes wine for those "in the know" and enjoyed by Greece's hip wine drinking circles.  

I look forward to tasting the "Uranos" as well (another from Thymiopoulos Vineyards), should it become available here, which reportedly has the depth and characteristics of a powerful modern style Barolo.  Yes please!

This wine is brought to us by SoPo Wine Co., South Portland, ME and Athenee Importers, NY (the largest importer of fine wine, spirits and beer from Greece and Cyprus).  Available at the following retailers: Rosemont Markets, Browne Trading Co. & RSVP, Portland; Lakonia in Saco; Perkins & Perkins in Ogunquit.  Also find it on the wine list at Street & Co. and Eventide Restaurants, Portland.

OTELLA ROSSO ALTO MINCIO GEMEI

Rosso Alto Mincio Gemei 2011

I know it's a mouthful ... both in words and palate, but I've unearthed what I believe to be a gem of a wine in the midst of this winter freeze!  Obscure and/or unfamiliar doesn't have to be scary however, especially when you get down to tasting and exploring a bit as to it's origins.  

AZIENDA AGRICOLA OTTELLA

Rosso Alto Mincio Gemei 2011
Peschiera del Garda
Verona Veneto, Italia

40% Merlot. 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. 40% Corvina, Molinara, Rondinella & Lagrein. 

One first notices a depth of color, deep dark crimson red, luscious like a regal robe.  Immediately on the nose, dusty earthy fruit, spice box, brambleberry along with red and black fruits.  Rich, bright cherry dances on the palate and later anise, eucalyptus and herbaceous brush.  With a beautifully soft mouth feel this gets more unctuous with time.  The color seems to intensify, along with a pronounced funkiness on the nose, spiced fig on the palate with flashes of tartness from deep cerise fruit.  Finish is uber smooth with herbaceous residuals and fine balance.  Delicious!  Enjoy with a hearty antipasti plate of meats, roasted vegetables and cheeses and imagine enjoying in your garden, while inside your dining room!  $17/bottle at Browne Trading Co., Portland

OTTELLA is the producer.  Azienda Agricola Ottella is the actual name of this agricultural estate located in the town of Peschiera del Garda in the DOC (designated growing area) of San Benedetto di Lugana.  Located at the southern end of Lake Garda in northern Italy, the vineyard is owned and run by the Montresor family, winegrowers for many generations - Franceso, his father Lodovico, his wife Elena and brother Michele.  They vinify all grapes from their own 25 hectares of vineyards and all are completely harvested by hand.  Terroir has glacial origins, composed of layers and layers of calcerous sediment, clay and red clay, called "leopard spot" configuration.  Surrounded by beautiful countryside, lakes and olive groves, the adjacent vineyards exude these influences.  The Montresors aim to create wines that are exceptionally modern yet are intrinsically expressive of the earth and vines from which they come and all of the history that holds.  

Brought to us by Easterly Wines, Belfast, ME and the Importer, Ideal Wine & Spirits, Medford, MA.  May be found at the following venues:  Browne Trading Co., Aurora Provisions and Bresca, Portland; Tess's Market and Trattoria Athena, Brunswick; The Lighthouse, Manchester; Blue Hill Wine Shop, Blue Hill; Uncorked Wine & Cheese, Augusta; Burby & Bates, Orono.

VINTAGE '59 IMPORTS

Henry Natter Sancere Rouge 2009

HAPPY NEW YEAR!

Exciting wine news for us here in Maine in the new year, is the arrival of a new Importer - Vintage '59 Imports!

Based out of Washington DC and established by Roy Cloud in 2003, they specialize in cutting-edge, French regional artisan wines, the classic vins des terroirs. A common thread connects Vintage '59 vignernons. These are growers who manage small domaines, whether farming organically, biodynamically or simply sustainably with a common sense approach, and who seek to preserve a traditional way of life, creating wines that are a unique expression of the earth from which they come.  "Their holistic approach requires a great deal of work in the vineyard, but it is work that is embraced because the rewards sought are as much personal and spiritual as they are financial. (Vintage '59)"  This approach fits beautifully with the philosophy of CRUSH Distributors, purveyors of fine, unique and artisan wines to Northern New England, a company created and run by women (Tabitha Blake and Megan Sleeper), who will be bringing them to us.

I had the pleasure of being able to experience some of these wines recently over the holidays and previously. Consider this a little warm-up sampler ... the actual line-up is yet to be determined!

Domaine Henry Natter

Sancerre Rouge 2009

Loire Valley, France

100% Pinot Noir (pictured above).  Brilliant garnet red in color, with a tinge of sienna (like soil and earth). Underpinning of earthy notes such as bark or twigs resonate, while beautiful/austere fruits of bing cherry, cranberry, even teaberry emerge through just the subtlest hint of smoke. Matured in oak barrels, using natural and traditional methods.  Elegante.  Lean.  Jubilant, yet understated.  We enjoyed with a delicious holiday ham, wild rice w/pecans, acorn squash quarters and arugula salad with pear and shaved Parmesan!  Wonderful chefs in my family ... Formidable!

Henry Natter Sancere Blanc 2010

Domaine Henry Natter

Sancerre Blanc 2010

Loire Valley, France

100% Sauvignon Blanc.  Golden light yellow in color.  Gorgeous and clean, minerality personified. One whiff says ... "Oysters on the half shell" !!!   The limestone soil comes shining through here.  There is also a richness present, no doubt due to some aging in oak. I frankly got so enthralled with this I neglected to take explicit notes!  

Nonetheless, this was elegant, lively and transported my senses to a heavenly end!

Pavillon de Chavannes, Côte de Brouilly 2011

Domaine du Pavillon de Chavannes,

Cuvee Ambassades 2011

Côte de Brouilly 

Beaujolais, France

100% Gamay.  Côte de Brouilly is a small area within Brouilly, the largest of the ten Beaujolais Crus in the region of Burgundy.  Vineyards are situated high up on the slopes of the extinct volcano, Mont Brouilly.  Terroir - blue granite laced with volcanic, crystalized mineral deposits.  

This wine has aromas and notes of violets, cranberry and plum, tart/deep fruit.  Peppery.  As it opens a bit more earth, even smoke and tobacco.  Balanced and Smooth.  Here I enjoyed with a rustic soup, but I'm thinking ... where is the cassoulet?!  

Mas Conscience terrasses du Lanzac 2008

Mas Conscience

Cuvée L’As 2008

Terrasses du Larzac

Coteaux du Languedoc, France

45% Grenache, 45% Syrah, 10% Carignan.  

I love the story of how the name "Mas Conscience" and the "donkey logo" came about.  The vineyards are located on the outskirts of Saint-Jean-de-Fos, a village in the Languedoc-Roussillon region near the Mediterranean.  It was originally known for its ceramics, such as large jugs used to store olive oil and wine, and transported via donkeys during the Middle Ages.  The Benedictine abbeys of Aniane (founded in 777) and Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert (founded in 804) were located nearby.  Every year, the notables of Saint-Jean-de-Fos would offer the abbeys either a jug of oil or wine or both, according to their conscience.  Winemakers, Geneviève and Laurent Vidal spent time there as children, and so integrated a bit of history of the village when establishing their vineyards in 2003.  Also, L'As means ace, as this is the top wine from Geneviève and Laurent.

Terroir is limestone and gravel, surrounded by the Languedoc underbrush, garrigues. Deep dark burgundy in color.  Rich earthy fruit such as plum, chocolate, blueberry and huckleberry permeate the nose and palate.  Graphite and bark follow.  Emerging in time an herbaceousness, with deep black cherry and hints of fig, even raisin.  Beautifully smooth mouth feel from the Syrah - but with the tenacious grenache, completely balanced to a dry finish.  I love wines from the Languedoc and this is a beauty!

This is merely scratching the surface of what's sure to come.  Stay tuned to and keep your eyes open at restaurants and retailers in the area, for many more wines from Vintage '59 Imports, the fruits of partnership with CRUSH Distributors.  CHEERS! 

WINES of ZEV ROVINE

Line-up of wines from Zev Rovine, presented at Rosemont Market Cellar!

I recently had the opportunity to taste some exciting, unique and cutting edge wines, alive with character and multiplicity.  These are the Wines of Zev Rovine. Based in Brooklyn, NY but also spending an equal amount of time in Paris, he is committed to representing wines that express a strong sense of place or terroir, created by winemakers who practice a completely hands-on approach in the vineyard, far from any sort of industrialization and with usually very small production/low yields. He represents wines that are produced in France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Argentina, and the US.    His selections have found an harmonious partnership here in Maine with Devenish Wines and Rosemont Market, to be sure! This particular evening we were privy to some of these wines, along with a glimpse at Rosemont's Cellar ... "Les Cave Domaine du Rosemont" peut-être?

Zev Rovine & Ned Swain (Devenish) w/tasters @Rosemont

Strongly aligned with the Natural Wine movement with his vins naturels, Zev prefaced our tasting by saying that these wines are just wine - nothing added.  No sulphur (preservative), no yeast (only that produced naturally), no sugar, additives, fillers or stabilizers, no fining or filtration.  Emphasis is on winemaking in the vineyard rather than the winery and on creating a diverse and harmonious ecology in which grapes can grow - no chemicals or pesticides.  Some of you may find this a no doubt radical approach ... I say taste these wines with a curious and open mind and allow your senses and taste buds to be moved in unexpected, even mercurial ways! 

Jean Pierre Robinot Bistrologie Chenin Blanc 2010

Let's get to the wines.  

Jean Pierre Robinot 
Les Vignes de l'Anges 2010
Vin cuvee' Bistrologie 
Loire Valley, France

100% Chenin Blanc.  This wine was made from 90 year old vines. With oxidized/crystalized tropical fruit on the palate, crisp acidity and underlying earthiness, this was clean and youthful. High strung, with a fair amount of vibrant tension, this one was great for opening up the palate. However I am advised, that this one is beautifully suited to aging! $25.99/btl.   Robinot makes wines in the heart of the Loire Valley in France and center of the natural wine movement.  Again, he uses organic, hand-harvested grapes without industrially manufactured yeasts, additives or sulphur dioxide.   We also tasted his pineau d'aunis toward the end of the evening, which was vibrant, an absolute delight and in that moment, defied classification.  I love his name for the wines, "Les Vignes de l'Anges", Vines of the Angels!

Domaine la Roche Buissière
Petit Jo 2011
Cotes du Rhone, France

100% Grenache.  Ruby red garnet in color, this was earthy, pungeant forest floor and a touch of barnyard on the nose. Untamed and lively with pepper, spice box and dark cherry on the palate.  While lighter to medium in weight, this had plenty of depth and funk, but on the cool with a dry finish.  Vivacious value @$14.99/btl.  La Roche Buissière is situated near Vaison-la-Romaine, in the southern part of Côtes-du-Rhône. They've been practicing organic farming since 1975.

Serious tasters ...

Azienda Agricola Cirelli
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo 2010
Abruzzi, Italy

100% Montepulciano.  Deep dark magenta in color, I immediately sensed "Italy" on the nose, with that dusty scent of earth.  A soft mouthfeel and round fruit follow.  Hints of tobacco and light smoke weave their way through. Another great value @ $14.99/btl.  

Located near the Adriatic Sea in the town of Abruzzi, Agricola Cirelli is a certified organic farm, home not only to the vineyard but also also olive trees, other horticultural crops and farm animals, as well as woods and National parks.  Rotation of crops allows land to rest and fertilization takes place as a result of the free ranging animals.  An ancient variety of the Montepulciano grape is harvested during the 2nd or 3rd week in October when the grape is fully ripe.  

Domaine Benjamin Taillandier
Minervois "Bufentis" 2010
Languedoc-Roussilon, France

80% Syrah, w/Grenache and Cinsault.  This was one of my favorites of the evening!  At first delicate on the nose ... then lively deep, unctuous fruit emerge, such as deep, dark plum - earthy, tannic and initially dry, even rustic.  As the evening progresses I revisit, finding the syrah coming through with characteristic silkiness, complexity and depth.  Speaking of the mercurial/evolving nature of these wines, this one speaks leagues.  $22.99/btl.  I'm bringing this to a family holiday celebration!

John Naylor/Rosemont w/Ned & tasters

Benjamin Taillandier is a young winemaker who established his domaine in 2007.  He grows organic grapes making wine without added yeasts or filters and only a little sulfites. He uses only grape varietals from the Languedoc:  Syrah, Grenache noir, Carignan, Cinsault and Terret gris.  As he puts it, he wants to make accessible wines "with a lot of French in the mouth".  Bien sure!

Cornelissen Rosso del Contadino No. 9

Frank Cornelissen 2011
Rosso del Contadino No. 9
Sicily, Italy

Field blend:  Nerello Mascalese w/25% local red varietals - Allicante, Minella Nera, Uva Francese, Nerello Capuccio & 5% Inzolia

Here was another favorite of the evening. This wine is made from grapes grown on high altitude/terraced 60-110 year old vines on a still active volcano on Mt. Etna, Sicily.  Hard rock and black sand is the growing medium.  A dynamic polyculture surrounds the vineyard.  

Dark sienna garnet red in color, flavors of deep bing cherry greet the palate.  Sherry-like notes emerge. Later layers of cedar and incense follow ....  mysterious, inexplicable, amorous ... delicious.  $25.99/btl  

The Muniebel Rosso No. 8 was a complete surprise.  Light earthy red in color, with suggestions of stewed red cabbage on the palate creating an integration of sweet/sour.  Hints of white/black pepper.  Tannic dusty finish.  Eccentric.  Untamed.  $42.99/btl.

Frank Cornelissen takes an even more radical approach to growing and winemaking in as he says, "avoiding all possible interventions on the land we cultivate, including any treatments, whether chemical, organic, biodynamic, as these are all a mere reflection of the inability of man to accept nature as she is and will be".   His products are, "the result of this philosophy and our hands, with team." 

The wines of Zev Rovine are the antithesis of static or constant.  Rather they are alive and vital - not complacent, ever-evolving.  And how could I forget? These are meant to be enjoyed with food! For starters try Rosemont's homemade sausage (turkish or duck perhaps?) with sauteed garlic & onions, mushroom risotto and braised greens along with my favorite Taillandier Minervois "Bufentis"!  Parfait!

Joe Appel - Rosemont Market

Rosemont Market was a gracious host to its guests on that evening, giving us a glimpse at its burgeoning cellar!  Burgundy, Bordeaux, Brunello, Barolo, Barbaresco, as well as more esoteric bottles, Lirac, Champagne signed by the winemaker, etc, etc,!  

Make inquiries to Joe Appel for unique purchases for the Holidays! 

Joe Appel - Rosemont Wine Cellar

2005 Barbaresco - Rosemont Wine Cellar

Zev Rovine Selections distributed in Maine by Devenish Wines.  Available at Rosemont Markets and Bier Cellar, Portland.